Each spring embassies open their doors to local tourists (http://dc.about.com/od/specialevents/a/PassportDC.htm). Pat had gone two weeks ago to embassies from everywhere but Europe, and this past Saturday the EU opened up in a program that’s called ‘Shortcut to Europe’ (http://www.europe-in-dc.com/ )
. This time I pulled myself from work and remembrance; we took the Orange Line to Metro Center, caught the Red Line to DuPont Circle, and headed up Massachusetts Avenue, aka Embassy Row, with no particular plan.
It was about Noon, and warm, when we started walking. We came across a statue of Gandhi almost immediately. The statue portrays Gandhi looking at the ground, considering his next steps, on a steady walk forward. I liked its placement at the base of Embassy Row, I expect as a reminder to the residents that there could be nobility in their pursuits.
We got in quickly to the Bulgarian, then Cypress, embassies, both being off the main drag, and these gave an idea of the general format, with national foods to sample in many cases, literature on country concerns and EU policies and programs, some informational film or live regional music, perhaps with dance, and embassy staff there to answer questions. Pat had a written program and was getting embassy stamps like many of the other visitors. Pat sampled wine at the Bulgarian Embassy and we both loved the cheese, albeit salty, at the Cypress Embassy.
When we got in line for the Greek embassy I may have let out an audible moan, because Pat assured me that I could walk around and take pictures while she waited. I must have matured over the years because my angst was minimal in any case, perhaps only residue of an emotional habit now greatly diminished, or perhaps it was her habit of proactively assuaging her formally adolescent spouse, now at almost 52, “a man full grown” as my Granma Carr would say, usually as a disparaging reference to a male who was not as emotionally grown up as she would have liked (as in “Imagine that, a man full grown!?”) – She was quite a gal, like a piece of hard cinnamon drop candy. I smiled at remarks from somewhere behind us “Do we really have to wait in this?” Yes my brother, life is difficult at times.
I’m sure that one reason for long lines in some cases was that many tourists had roots in the country – I certainly would have waited a very long time to get into the Scottish and Iroquois embassies, for example! Another reason was almost certainly the embassy’s food offerings, as leaked out by earlier visitors. The Greek Embassy probably benefited from both, because word on the street was that there was some superfine olive oil and cheeses inside. Whether this was true or not, I don’t know, because once inside, after about a 30 minute wait, we found that the main food line was horrendous, and the children doing traditional Greek dances for the waiting throngs wasn’t going to cut it for us. Fortunately, Pat has a very dominant sweet tooth, and here is the first tip – you can just walk past the main line, into the next room, and the dessert line is almost nil. It pays to look around before getting in line – one of life’s great lessons in the microcosm of the Greek Embassy on Shortcut-to-Europe day!
The Irish Embassy is across the street, with an even longer line than the one we’d just endured. Pat’s Irish, but not me (only a smidgeon), so I headed down the block to the Embassy of Luxembourg, and I’m so happy I did, because a third reason, and my primary one to see the embassies is architecture, design, and décor – and in this regard little Luxembourg had the previous embassies beat – simple, tasteful, light and not rearranged to accommodate food lines or entertainment. But beyond this, the Ambassador and his wife were there talking to visitors – they were somewhat formal, a bit nervous and on guard I think, and I only listened in as they spoke with others, but I appreciated them showing up. I snapped pictures and got back in plenty of time to join Pat in line for the Irish Embassy – soda bread, crackers, and cheese – yes, the long line at the Irish Embassy was all about roots. But one wonderful surprise as Pat and I stood in line is that Mark Dalhouse rolled by with his Maymester Vanderbilt class on citizenship – I lit up, briefly chatting with people from Nashville, from home.
I took Pat back to Luxembourg and she confirmed their good taste, before we trekked up Massachusetts in search of Finland, stumbling upon other embassies as we went. I was across the street from the Croatian Embassy, and I was struck by a statue in its front yard – a seated man in apparent despair, I thought, probably representing the inner angst that must be often part of diplomacy. I crossed the street to look closer, and the man, Saint Jerome, was pouring over a book in search of answers – that’s the way I read it anyways – it wasn’t an undirected search for knowledge sake but the search had a better defined goal. In any case, the statue resonated with me, affecting me more than even the statue of Gandhi.
When I was done, Pat was waiting at corner, up the road, having spotted another embassy off the beaten path – the Dutch Embassy – another short line – and the most beautiful and intimate of the embassies we saw that day, with access to the second floor living space of the Ambassador – the library, living room with family pictures, and formal dining room for receptions. This was the only embassy that we visited that day which disallowed photography – perhaps for reasons of security, but even if not, I could understand why when I got in – there would be little forward progress if picture taking was allowed. Again, no food and no entertainment, security personnel with ear phones, mikes, sun glasses, form-fitted suits, in each room, along with Embassy staff, but note to self — see the Dutch Embassy again, and take your notepad.
It might seem that we had done a lot, but we had a fair amount of hiking in front of us to reach the Finnish Embassy, which we never did see, but we saw all variety of embassies along a straight, grand stretch of Massachusetts Avenue – from the huge Japanese complex with residence and chancery offices side by side, the small and somewhat disheveled offices of the Indian Embassy that spoke to me of unpretentious industry, the tiny brick Embassy of the Marshall Islands, the new, plush Embassy of the Ivory Coast (but by a French name that’s a tongue twister), and so many others. We ended the day at the Danish Embassy, sidetracked off Massachusetts, away from Finland, because I was going to Copenhagen in two weeks and because of the promise of a Climate Change exhibit – Ireland and Denmark had the only displays on Climate Change – imagine that, an island and a country largely below sea level.
After Denmark, Pat and I hobbled back along the path that we’d come — exhausted. But refreshed soon by friends. Nonetheless, I haven’t been as sore as I was on Sunday in a very long time.